A highly debated measure that has divided public opinion and reignited the discussion over the consequences of a production model widely criticized as unethical and difficult to sustain.
Starting today, Tuesday, September 1, France is introducing a penalty system targeting so-called “ultra-fast fashion,” in an effort to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry and encourage more sustainable patterns of production and consumption.
The measure will primarily affect companies whose business models rely on ultra-fast fashion practices and, while it does not formally target Asian companies — in accordance with the principle of non-discrimination — its impact is expected to be felt mainly by major Chinese groups such as Shein and Temu. The charges will range from 50 cents to €12 per item, depending on the characteristics of the products and the practices adopted by the companies.
The new system stems from legislation approved by a broad parliamentary majority in early July. It is based mainly on two criteria: the breadth of a company’s product offering and the repairability of its garments. The aim is to discourage business models built around the constant release of new products at extremely low prices, while encouraging consumers to repair clothing rather than replace it.
According to France’s Consumer Affairs and Ecological Transition ministries, the system was developed in consultation with lawmakers and European companies in the sector. As a result, its impact on brands such as Zara and H&M is expected to be “virtually negligible.” The measure does not formally distinguish between European and Asian companies; instead, it targets practices associated with ultra-fast fashion. In practice, however, the new charges are expected to fall primarily on large Chinese platforms, whose business models are characterized by huge volumes of new products and exceptionally low prices.
Repairability is a key element of the system. It will be assessed based both on the repair services offered by brands and on the relationship between the price of a product and benchmark repair costs, such as a €10 reference cost for repairing a shirt.
In other words, penalties will apply when the low price of a product makes repairing it economically unattractive compared with buying a new garment. The charge will start at €0.50 for items such as socks and underwear and can rise to €12 for products such as jackets and coats.
In all cases, the penalty cannot exceed 50 percent of the product’s retail price.
